Showing posts sorted by relevance for query toilet tank. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query toilet tank. Sort by date Show all posts

Friday, 8 April 2011

3 Tips For the Quickest Proven Way to Stop an Overflowing Toilet

Dealing with an overflowing toilet is never pleasant, but it always seems to happen at the most unexpected and inconvenient time. We really don't care what caused the toilet to overflow (although this information is always helpful for future reference) because time is of the essence in this situation, and we just want to stop the immediate problem as quickly as possible. But let's first look at possible causes anyway so that you will be able to prevent this headache in the future. This is easier than you might think. Either your trap, drain, or bowl is partially or completely clogged. So what are signs that your bowl might be clogged?

  • Toilet won't drain properly
  • Toilet doesn't flush
  • Toilet overflows
  • Toilet partially flushes

To immediately stop your toilet from overflowing:

1. Take off your tank lid. In your haste, remember to gently place the lid across the toilet bowl so that it won't drop and break.
2. Reach inside the tank and push down on the flapper valve. This will stop the tank from emptying any more water into the toilet bowl. The flapper valve is rubber and is usually located in the center at the bottom of the toilet tank. And don't worry, the water in the tank is sanitary so don't be afraid to put your hand in the water to reach the valve.
3. Lift up the float that operates the toilet tank fill valve. This will prevent the toilet bowl from filling up with more water because water will stop entering the tank from the toilet supply line. Note that the flapper located at the bottom of the tank will be shut.

IF...

You see the water level in the toilet bowl slowly dropping, continue holding the toilet tank float up in the highest position. This will ensure that no more water will flow into the tank or toilet bowl. If after a couple of minutes the water level has returned to normal, you can release the toilet tank float. The tank and bowl will refill without overflowing.

IF...

You see the water level in the toilet tank is not dropping after a couple of minutes, continue to hold the float up and close the toilet supply valve that is located near the floor or behind the toilet by turning it. You may need someone else to assist you in closing the valve so that you can continue holding the float up. Don't force the toilet supply valve if you can't turn it or the valve may break and result in a major leak.

IF...

You can't close the valve or if you don't see the valve, remove the small tube that is sending water through the vertical standpipe. This tube is plastic or rubber. Lift up on the tube and aim it into the toilet tank. At this point you will be able to let the float drop and allow the toilet tank to fill. Once the toilet tank has filled, you can clip the tube back in place and you shouldn't have to worry about your toilet bowl overflowing. Try to remember that if you find yourself in this situation that it happens to everyone from time to time. At least now you know how to stop your toilet from overflowing and can possibly help out a friend in the future should they happen to deal with the same problem.

Sunday, 28 November 2010

How to Replace Your Toilet

One thing is for sure, the level of difficulty in replacing your home's toilet does not correspond with its importance! Removing your current commode and installing a new one is a rather simple task that shouldn't take more than a few hours. Many people don't think about their toilet when they are redesigning a bathroom, au contraire! The toilet, as the centerpiece of any bathroom, should be where your design starts. Pick out one that will do its duty as the star player in your new bathroom, and follow these simple steps for its installation.

1. Most toilets have a separate tank that mounts on top of the bowl, so these instructions are really geared towards that kind of toilet's installation. Whatever toilet you choose, you should follow the manufacturer's instructions first and foremost.

2. Before you buy, be sure to measure the distance between the back bolts that hold down your toilet and the wall behind it. Most toilets should have about a 12, distance.

3. Turn off your old toilet's water supply, flushing afterward to let all the water out of its tank. Hold the trip-lever down as you flush to be sure that you get all the water out. Use a sponge to completely dry the tank and bowl.

4. Using a large, adjustable open-end wrench, loosen the nut between the toilet tank and the base. Watch the fill valve, you might need to hold it still with some pliers so it doesn't turn.

5. Loosen the bolts that hold the tank to the ground and to the toilet, the nuts for these are located at the rear of the toilet bowl. With these bolts out,they are long, you can lift the tank off the bowl.

6. If you have a tank that mounts to the wall and feeds the tank with a curved pipe, remove the pipe first with a trap wrench or water pump pliers. You can even saw it with a hacksaw to remove it. Then, carefully remove the tank from the wall after unscrewing the bolts that hold in place. Have someone support it as you unscrew so it doesn't fall.

7. To remove the toilet bowl, you will need to unscrew it from the floor. Typically, toilets are fastened to the floor with two hold-down bolts and nuts, hidden beneath trim caps. Pry off the trim caps to expose the bolts and nuts and unscrew them. If unscrewing the nuts is difficult, you can saw them off with a mini-hacksaw,just be sure to protect the bowl's finish with masking tape.

8. Now you can rock the bowl back and forth to break its seal with the floor. Once it is free of the seal, you can lift it and take it out of the house. Don't forget to hold it level so you don't spill any water left in trap-seal.

9. Fill the hole left in your bathroom with rags or paper towels in plastic bags so you can keep sewer gas out of the house and protect the soil pipe.

10. Now, you need to clean everything up before you install your new toilet. Remove any old putty or wax that created the toilet seal. Clean the floor completely just in case the new toilet doesn't sit in the same place. Remove the old hold-down bolts and throw them away. If you want to paint the wall behind the toilet or replace the tile in the bathroom, now is the time!

11. Install any new water supply plumbing you want. It is a good idea to install a new fixture supply valve and a flexible riser tube, as they are helpful when shutting off your toilet's water supply. The valve will attach to the water supply pipe.

12. Check out the toilet flange, ensuring that it sticks up about 1/2" from the floor.

13. Set the new toilet in position on the flange to check for levelness. Check it on all sides, putting in some shims if necessary with non-rusting metal washers.

14. Install some new toilet hold-down bolts. If there are already holes for them, insert there. If you are using a cast iron piping system, the hold-downs will screw into the floor. Be sure to use the correct bolts, ask your retailer for them.

15. Now it is time to install your new toilet, handle it with care so you don't crack or chip it! Invert it onto a thick padding of newspapers on the floor.

16. Next, seal the toilet to its soil pipe by placing a wax toilet ring gasket over the bowl's outlet hole. Make sure the gasket is at room temperature before you install it. The flat face should go against the bowl and its sleeve (if it has one) should face away from it. Be sure to use a new gasket for this!

17. You'll need to seal the bowl-to-floor joint at the edge of the bowl's base. Lay a bead of plumber's putty where the toilet will be set or use two pounds of plaster. You can also caulk the joint with bathtub caulk.

18. Before setting the bowl, remove the rags from the opening. Hold the bowl upright a few inches over the floor. Lower it slowly, ensuring that the hold-down bolts pass through their openings in the base and the wax gasket meets with the toilet flange.

19. Rock the bowl carefully from front to back and side to side while pushing down hard, this will seal the bowl onto the floor and on its gasket. Make sure it is level and square with the rear wall, but do not raise the bowl from the floor! You will have to start the setting process over.

20. Put washers over the hold-down bolts and thread on the brass nuts. Tighten the nuts with your hands, as using a wrench could break the bowl. If the bowl has some front-mounting holes, install toilet studs with washers and nuts into them.

21. Install the toilet tank hardware if it comes separately. Take the rubber spud washer and set it into the flush valve opening in the bottom of the tank. The washer will go beveled side out. If there is a rubber tank cushion, set it in place on the bowl. Pick up the tank and lower it into place on the back of the bowl.

22. Install the brass tank-mounting bolts from inside the tank, sliding them down through their holes. Place two rubber washers against the tank and bowl, drawing them up gently until they are snug.

23. Connect the tank's water supply to the inlet valve on the bottom of the tank. Use a coupling nut for this, as it will work perfectly with a flat-ended riser tube. Turn on the water and watch the tank as it fills, checking for leaks. See that the tank fills to about 1/2" below the top of the overflow tube.

24. Tighten the bowl hold-down bolts one turn beyond hand-tight. Cut the ends and install the trim caps, filling their recesses with plumber's putty and pressing them down over the bolts.

25. Smooth and clean up the excess sealant around the base of the toilet and test-flush it. Install the toilet seat and tank cover and you are done!

Tuesday, 22 February 2011

Flawless Flushing - Strategies to Keep Your Toilet Trouble Free

Is there a more aggravating situation in your day than to have a toilet not flush properly? As long as a toilet is working as it should, it's easy to not give it a second thought. Rather than wait for a toilet to act up, take a pro-active approach to minimize toilet troubles.

Tips to insure flawless flushing; here's a baker's dozen:

1. Don't use a toilet for a trash can or garbage disposer. Rather than list all the items that shouldn't be flushed down a toilet, I'll list the safe ones. A toilet is designed for the purpose of disposing of human waste and toilet tissue ... that's it ... end of story.

2. All paper is not created equal; toilet tissue is especially designed to quickly breakup in water whereas many other papers such as paper towels actually advertise how strong they are and how they hold together when wiping up liquids. Keep a waste paper basket in the bathroom for such things as facial tissues, sanitary products, paper towels, flushable wipes, etc.

3. Be kind to your toilets. Treat your toilet tanks and bowls like the "china bowls" they are; they can and will crack if abused. BE CAREFUL with tools around a toilet, don't compound the problem when making a repair in your bathroom. It's unlikely that you will be able to fix a cracked toilet bowl or tank.

4. Don't use a toilet for a ladder or stepstool. Don't stand or sit on a toilet tank lid. And don't put a lot of pressure on a tank by leaning back against it.

5. Throw out a toilet bowl cleaning brush once the bristles wear down and any metal is showing. Once the bowl is scratched, it's impossible keep clean, and you won't be able to repair the scratches. A plastic brush is less likely to scratch the china.

6. Don't store small or heavy items on the lid of the toilet tank or on a shelf above to minimize the risk of a something falling in, such as toys, brushes, combs, etc. A tooth brush that gets stuck in the interior passageway of a toilet bowl that can't be dislodged means replacing the toilet. A very heavy item that hits the china bowl could chip or crack the bowl.

7. Don't pour hot liquids into a toilet bowl or tank, the bowl or tank may crack.

8. Don't mix toilet cleaning products. Many of them contain bleach or ammonia; two ingredients that make a dangerous combination when mixed.

9. Help the environment, don't flush old prescriptions down a toilet. A hand full of pills is unlikely to harm a toilet, but according to the Arlington (Texas) Water Utilities, significant advancements in technology and processes have been made. Consequently, pharmaceutical compounds in tiny amounts are able to be detected in our waterways. Pharmaceutical compounds and personal care products are being found at low levels in many of our nation's lakes, rivers, and streams.

10. Do flush a toilet after every use. A crust will begin to form on the bottom of the toilet bowl if urine is allowed to sit in the bowl for long periods. The crust is very difficult to remove.

11. Never use a regular drain snake in a toilet which can permanently scratch the bowl. Make sure to only use a snake known as a toilet auger designed especially for toilets.

12. During freezing weather make sure the bathroom is heated, otherwise the toilet tank and bowl must be completely drained. In addition, the supply line under the tank should be disconnected and the ballcock drained.

13. Don't use drop-in tank tablets for cleaning a toilet. Whether blue, white or purple, these tablets are not good for the toilet. Some will cause a lazy flush which forces you to flush one, two or more times to completely clear a bowl. This lazy flush is also known as the blue goo phenomenon.

Tag : toilet,toilet paper,toilet repair,toilet wall,flush toilet

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kay_Keating

Sunday, 6 March 2011

How to Replace a Broken Toilet

You can turn on a fan if the Air Conditioner breaks, bar-b-que if the stove shoots craps or hire the neighborhood kid if the mower stops, but one thing you absolutely can not do without is... a working toilet.

The easiest way to replace a broken toilet is to get in the Yellow Pages, call a plumber and pay him a $1000 to replace it. That will get you a standard water closet, as it's professionally referred to, installed and the broken one put outside for the trash man. (maybe)

Although that's probably a reasonable deal, you could do the same job yourself for about $200. Although I am a licensed plumber, you don't have to be to perform this repair if you follow my easy to understand instructions. Ready?

First, let's go to your neighborhood Home Depot, Lowes or whatever supplier around your home to buy supplies. As a caveat here, plumbing fixtures are a lot like a new car or truck. There's the $10,000 base model or the $35,000 fully loaded model. We'll stay with the base model.

Purchase a toilet, which comes with the commode and tank separately boxed, but priced together. Almost all new toilets come equipped with the internal parts of the tank assembled.

Purchase a wax ring, the type with the rubber flange attached, a toilet water supply line, being sure it's a toilet and not sink water line. I recommend the flexible water lines over the chrome, plastic or copper water lines for ease of installation. Might as well buy a new toilet seat while you're at it.

Removing the broken toilet. Here are the basic steps to removing the broken fixture.
1. Turn the water off at the stop valve located behind the toilet.
2. Once the water is shut off, flush the toilet letting it drain as much water out of the integral trap as possible. It doesn't hurt to try flushing it twice.
3. Lift the top off the tank. Depending on the amount of water still in the tank either use a wet / dry vac or a sponge to remove it.
4. Unscrew the water supply line from the bottom of the tank. Have a rag handy because water will invariably still leak out no matter how good of a job you thought you did drying the tank.
5. Inside the tank are two bolts holding the tank on to the base. Unscrew these two bolts and carefully lift the tank from the base. Remove tank to the trash.
6.There are two, one on each side of the toilet, closet bolts which hold the toilet to the floor. If there are caps over the bolts, remove or pop them open. Using a small crescent wrench unscrew the nuts from the bolts. Alternate side to side when unscrewing, this will be much more important when reinstalling the bolts, but alternate anyhow.
7. Once the nuts and washers have been removed from the bolts, slowly rock the toilet base back and forth to break the seal loose. Once loose, lift toilet straight up until it clears the closet bolts. You now have the broken toilet completely removed.
8. There will be a closet flange and a hole, which is the sewer line, in the floor. Place a rag loosely into the sewer line to keep anything from falling into it and creating a clog later. Don't lose the rag down it.
9. There will be a wax ring or residual of it stuck on the closet flange and pipe. Scrape all the wax off and wipe clean. It must be clean or risk the chance of a leak.
10. Place the toilet on its side and carefully unwrap the new wax ring you just purchased. Place the wax side against the toilet bottom where the sewer pipe and toilet will meet. Gently, but firmly press into place.
11. Lifting the toilet, and being careful not to hit the floor or anything else which could compromise the wax ring, place the toilet onto the closet bolts. Insuring the rubber flange goes down into the pipe, firmly push the toilet, with a slight rocking motion, down onto the floor.
12. Reinstall the washers and nut on the closet bolts and finger tighten. Sit on the toilet using your weight and a slight rocking motion to secure it to the floor by expanding the wax ring.
13. Using the small crescent wrench tighten the nuts on the closet bolts. Alternate sides using the same turns on each. Six turns on the right...six turns on the left...and so on until the toilet is secured tightly to the floor. Do not over tighten as you could break the base of the toilet ruining it.
14. Remove the tank from the box and secure it to the toilet base with the two bolts from inside the tank.
15. Replace the toilet water supply line with the new one. Turn on the water and allow the tank to fill with water, watching for any signs of a leak, which 99% of the time would come from the two bolts used to secure the tank to the toilet base or where the supply line connects to the toilet or the shutoff.
16. Flush toilet, again watching for any leaks.
17. Install the new toilet seat.
18. It's not a bad idea, but not required on residential homes, to run a bead of caulking around the base of the toilet and the floor.

Tag : toilet,broken toilet,broken

Sunday, 13 March 2011

Broken Toilet? - How To Fix A Toilet's Three Most Common Problems

We all love to spruce up our home but the toilet is almost always ignored. When the toilet presents problems and it is obvious something is wrong we then begin to realize that the toilet is one of most important fixtures in our home.

Toilets are the sturdiest components of your home plumbing system. However, I would guess that there has never been a home which has not had problems with it. A runny toilet, a clogged toilet and a leaky tank are some of the most common problems you have with your toilet. If you have had or will have any of these three usual problems with yours, here are suggestions as to how you can sort them out.

Problem 1: There is Too Little Water to Clean the Toilet Bowl on Flushing

When you face this problem the first thing to do is to check the tank to see if the water level is okay. If there is no water in the tank obviously none will come out when you flush. Normally the water level should be a least one or two inches on top of the overflow tube. If water is not entering the tank one thing you can do is to hold the arm of the apparatus and bend it slightly until more water begins to enter into the tank.

Problem 2: Leaky Toilet Tank

A leaky toilet tank is a real problem because not only does it ruin the chinaware but it also leaves a mark on the floor, especially if you use cleaning chemicals in the tank.

If your toilet tank has been sweating water on the floor the ideal way to cope with this is through jackets which are specifically designed to absorb this sweat.

Another way to permanently fix this particular problem is to use a temperature valve. The valve helps stop sweating by providing a mixture of hot and cold water going into the tank. This causes a relief in condensation. This valve should only be installed if the general temperature of your toilet tank remains less than 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Problem 3: Cracked or Broken Toilet Seat

A cracked or broken toilet seat can be a real nuisance and can prevent you from using the toilet at all. Thank goodness changing your toilet seat is really not a very difficult task. There are a lot of different styles of replacement seats available commercially. Just go pick on that suits you and you are on your way. My favorite is a padded one which I find exceptionally comfortable.

Warning: Be careful to select the right size. There are only two standard sizes when it comes to toilet bowls so this should not be a problem.

All you need do is lift up the toilet seat and remove the two nuts on the hinges that hold the seat in place on the toilet bowl. Once you have removed the nuts, you can just lift the seat off.

If the nuts are rusted or corroded and not coming off easily use some oil to loosen them. Once the seat is removed place the new seat on the toilet and screw the nuts in place.

Conclusion

So you see these very annoying problems, when tackled soon and sensibly, don't have to cause a great deal of angst. Now that you know how to fix a toilet, relax and have joyous trips to the bathroom in your home.

Tag : toilet,borken toilet,toilet repair


Wednesday, 29 July 2009

Need a New Toilet? What Type Should You Choose?

With today's growing concerns regarding saving water and cutting down on utility costs, more people are directing their attention to their toilet. The toilet accounts for as much as 30% of total household water usage and as such, should be a primary concern to cut down on your water wastage. However, the toilet isn't exactly most people area of expertise when it comes to choosing the right design for your needs. Here is a breakdown of the most common types of toilets, and their functions.

  1. Gravity - The vast majority, as much as 99% of household toilets are of the gravity type. Since the inception of 6-litre toilets, gravity type flushing action has been vastly improved. A gravity bowl works on siphoning action, pulling water from the bowl and with today's design technology, 6-litre gravity toilets actually outperform old large volume toilets.
  2. Vacuum-assist - Unlike gravity toilets, vacuum-assist toilets have a mechanism that creates a small vacuum in the trap to aid in the flushing water from the bowl. The fill valve and early closing flappers are identical to gravity type toilets.
  3. Pressure-assist - This toilet design doesn't use a traditional flapper mechanism, instead there is a vessel inside the toilet tank that traps air. The tank fills with water and uses the pressure from the water line to compress the trapped air. This compressed air is released and instead of a siphoning action sucking water from the bowl, you have a pressurized "push", clearing waste from the bowl. These toilets are much louder than gravity type and vacuum-assist toilets, they are also more expensive and can usually be found in commercial buildings and institutions.
  4. Tip Bucket - This zany toilet utilizes a bucket located at the top of the toilet tank. The bucket, rather than the tank is filled with water, and when the lever is depressed, the bucket tips over into the tank and drains into the bowl. The basic idea is the same as a gravity type toilet, but the difference is with the water stored in the bucket, you don't need to have a flapper in the tank, so you have no chance of leaks and no internal components to replace. There is also the possibility of an adjustable tank making the toilet adaptable to both 10-inch and 12-inch gaps between the bottom of the base and the wall.
  5. Dual Flush Toilets - Dual Flush Toilets are unique in that they have two handles or buttons. One handle typically flushes a 1 gallon or 4 liter flush while the other handle delivers a full tank. This allows for a reduced flush for liquid wastes and a full flush for solid wastes. Dual flush technology has been mandated in Australia for many years and is very common in Europe as well, however the technology is just starting to catch on in North America. This toilet type can actually use up to 26% less water than any other 1.6 gallon toilet.

When choosing a toilet design for your home, be aware of the possibility of leakage and the toilet tank volume. Older toilets can be retrofitted or replaced and the initial cost will pay itself off in spades when you start counting the gallons of water a day that can be saved. With only a little awareness, you can drastically cut down your family's water footprint and reduce your utility bills.

Tag : toilet,toilet paper,toilet training,toilet repair,toilet seats


Friday, 20 March 2009

Running Toilet: Repair It Yourself

Is your toilet running all the time and never stops? It overflows often or gets stuck when pulling the handle? Is the noise of your toilet keeping you awake in the night? Don't call the plumber yet. Toilet repairing is not that hard as it looks if you know a little more about how to fix a running toilet.

The toilet tank, when open, will reveal the valve and float (in the left), overflow tube and flapper and the handle that is connected to the toilet lever and chain.

What is in your toilet? All the toilets have the same principles of work, even if the way they do it can be different. Try flushing and watch the tank components at work.Pushing the handle will bake the chain lift a flapper and the water will fall from the tank into the bowl from an opening. When the water level gets lower then the flapper drops and the opening will be close.

The floater sinks with the water and releases the valve that lets more water into the tank, filling it again. That in turn makes the floater rise and it should stop the valve when the tank is full, ready for a new use.

The middle tube is an overflow safety that takes all the excess water from the tank if the water level is too high and drops it into the bowl.

See it for yourself. If, after the flushing, the toilet runs for too much time, lift the lid and look into the tank.

The whole mechanism must work together. Be sure that the components they do not tangle each other.

Manually close the flapper. The tank is not filling and it is not full, while the water escapes into the bowl? Then the flapper is stuck open. All you have to do is to reach it with your hand and push it down to close it. If this problems is repeating then look for the problem.

Look if the chain is tangled, or the flapper is not aligned with the opening. The chain and the flapper can be stuck together or the flapper is stiff from wear and it needs to be replaced. These are the most common issues for this problem.

Manually adjust the float and valve. In case of overflowing, when the water keeps running over the top of the overflow tube and the toilet is running for ever you can adjust the float that connects with the valve. Rise the float with your hand. The water should stop pouring into the tank. Adjust the float so that the water will fill the tank close to an inch (2.5 cm) below the overflow tube opening. Don't let the tank fill more, as that will cause a leaking flapper from the excess pressure. That can happen even on a just bought item, when you fix running toilet.

To modify the float height move this clip. If the float gets around the valve then move the metal clip and get the float down on the wire. For this valve style you must screw in the blue screw or bend the rod. For the float that has a ball on an arm, turn the screws from the top. Bending the arm down may also work.

Change the flapper. The toilet stops and starts again and again? Then your toilet has a slow leak. To be sure try to place ink or some kind of colored liquid into the tank. You may use dye tablets from your hardware store. After some time, one or two hours, check the bowl. If it is colored then you are sure of a slow leak. This means that slow amounts of water flows into the bowl. This is a common issue with the old flappers. They get stiff in time from the wear and catch minerals from the water. The best thing is to replace the flapper. Remove the old one from your tank and go to the closest equipment store and compare it with the new ones. Be sure to buy a replacement that matches for size.

Turn this valve like a faucet, clockwise, to close it. To replace the old part, close the valve that is next to the wall under the tank of your toilet. Empty the toilet by flushing. With the valve closed the tank will stay empty. Get the old flapper from the hinges and release the chain then place the new part in the same spot. Get any dirt or minerals from the rim where the flapper rests. Those may be the cause for the slow leak. Let the water in by opening the top valve.

Flush for couple of times. Check if the chain has the right length and if all the parts are connected properly. Trim the chain by hand if is necessary. Check if the new flapper closes the opening and the water stops pouring after the flushing is done.

Sometimes there are other causes for the slow leak. The overflow rubber tube that connects the overflow tube with the valve may be too low. Rise the valve or the tube height or get the water level lower by lowering the float.

If any other components are broken, like the valve himself or the metal or plastic arm that connects the float with the valve, then it is the time for a replacement of the respective components. If the problem does not seem that serious you can work out a temporary solution using some super glue until you find some time to buy the new part.

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Saturday, 21 February 2009

7 Tips For Buying A New Toilet

It’s easy to get excited about designer sinks, clawfoot tubs, and steam showers when you’re redesigning your bathroom. Most contractors and homeowners pay a great deal of attention to these fixtures: their design can make a big difference in function, and extras can give your bathroom a feeling of luxury.

But even though it’s the most often-used fixture in the bathroom, most redesigners don’t give a lot of thought to one feature: the humble toilet. The one you choose can make a difference, however. Read on for seven things to consider when buying a new toilet.

One-piece vs. two-piece. Most toilets come in two different designs: the one-piece and the two-piece, or close-coupled toilet. Close-coupled toilets are the most common, and tend to be the cheaper type. These employ an attached but separate tank and bowl. One-piece toilets have a tank built into the back of the bowl. These tend to be easier to clean, because there’s no small gap between the tank and the bowl. However, they’re usually more expensive. One-piece models have a lower profile than close-coupled toilets, and some redesigners like the more compact profile.

Seat shape and size. Toilet bowls come in either round or elongated models. Elongated seats are generally about two inches longer, and provide a bit more surface area—making the toilet a bit more comfortable than the round variety. Round toilets are smaller, and better for tight spaces. If you have the space for it, however, you may appreciate the comfort of an elongated bowl.

The flush system. Most toilets operate on a gravity flush system. These rely on the pressure of water in the tank as well as the weight of the water in the bowl to force water and waste into the pipes. Old-fashioned toilets with wall-mounted tanks relied on the height of the tank to increase the head pressure. Gravity-flush toilets are the most common and least expensive type.

Pressure-assisted flushing mechanisms, however, are gaining in popularity. These incorporate a cylinder of pressurized air inside the toilet tank to provide force to the flushing mechanism. These types of toilets typically have a loud, forceful flush, and are often used in commercial bathrooms.

Some cutting-edge toilet manufacturers offer dual-flush toilets that can help you save water. These offer a “half flush” for liquid waste and a “full flush” for solid waste. This lets you adjust the amount of water you use for lighter or heavier loads.

The trapway. The trapway is the part of the toilet through which water and waste exit. The larger the trapway, the better. A larger trapway allows for better flushing action and less risk of clogs. In addition, when you’re in the store, be sure to ask if a toilet’s trapway is fully glazed. A fully glazed trapway has a smoother surface. It can improve flushing performance and make the bowl easier to clean.

Toilet height. Toilets come in many different sizes and heights. If there are any senior citizens living in your home, they may find a higher toilet to be more comfortable—they won’t have to lower themselves as far to sit down on it. If you have young children, you may want to consider a shorter toilet so they can access it more easily.

Attachment method. Whether you choose a floor-mounted or wall-mounted toilet will depend on the plumbing in your bathroom. The drain line in your bathroom is the pipe that takes the water and waste from your toilet bowl to the sewer or septic tank, and this can be either a floor-discharge or wall-discharge design. If you have a floor-discharge drain line, your toilet will need to be bolted to the floor. A wall-discharge drain line requires a wall-mounted toilet. You can find both gravity and pressure-assisted toilets in both designs.

Extra features. There are many extra features that can make a toilet more sanitary and luxurious. These include heated seats; motorized seats that lower automatically; ceramic glazes that make the toilet largely antibacterial; built-in bidet and drying features; insulation that prevents condensation on the outside of the bowl; and more.

The toilet may not be the most glamorous item in your bathroom, but it’s one of the most necessary. Take your time when choosing a toilet. Be sure to measure the distance between the wall and the drain line opening, if you have a floor-discharge drain line. With a wall-discharge drain line, measure the distance between the floor and the drain line. With these measurements, you can be sure to find the right toilet for your bathroom.

By: Ray Dobson

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Wednesday, 11 February 2009

Her Fix-it Guide to Toilet Repair

Imagine your home without toilets. Yes, the thought itself is enough to make you cringe. The toilet is often the most used, or should we say the most 'misused' fixture in the home. The importance of the toilet can only be felt at the exact point in time when something goes wrong with it. Toilets generally are a fairly easy DIY project that can be successfully completed by anyone. With just a bit of work and the tips you will find in this article, you should be able to quickly fix your toilet.

The first step in fixing a toilet is to determine the problem with the toilet. Your toilet could either be a slow moving toilet, or it could be clogged, or it could even be a running toilet. A slow moving toilet implies that you have to flush the toilet quite a number of times and the water drains away quite slowly. Slow moving toilets are often the result of clogged sewage drain pipes, and are at risk of suddenly clogging completely and overflowing. No one likes to clean up the mess an overflowing toilet creates. A running toilet is one where once you flush it, the water does not want to stop flowing into the toilet bowl. A running toilet can use up a large amount of water over a fairly short period, so it is important to get it fixed as soon as possible.

Make no difference which problem you have, you can fix it yourself. If you happen to have a clogged or slow moving toilet, then the first thing you should do is turn off water supply to the toilet. You can do this can be by turning the knob on the shut off valve to the right until the water supply stops. The valve is normally placed a few inches above the floor on the left when facing the toilet.

Now determine which the problem you have. To do this, pour a bucket of water quickly into the bowl. If it flushes slowly, the toilet has developed a clog. Clear the clog affecting your toilet by first using a plunger. If this removes the clog, then you can turn the water back on to the toilet, if it does not clear the clog, then you should try using a plumber’s snake. This tool will allow you to clear most any clog.

Once you have the clog taken care of, then you should clear the mineral deposits that tend to develop in the small holes under the rim of the toilet. This will help your toilet flush much more effectively. These holes can be cleared with a stiff bristled brush, or you can use the bent end of a coat hanger to poke the holes clear. You might also want to make use of a small mirror to see the holes that are being cleared.

If your toilet is letting water into the bowl at all times, then you have a running toilet. First off, remove the toilet tank lid and sit aside out of your way. Some people like to place it in the bathtub. Next check the ball cock, which is the valve that the float is attached to. If water is coming out of the valve, you may need to replace it.

If that doesn’t seem to be the problem, then press down on the flap at the bottom of the toilet tank to see if the water stops running into the bowl. Over time, these flaps tend to warp out of shape and cause the tank to leak into the bowl. If this solves the problem, then replace the tank flap.

Whichever needs replacing, be certain to shut off the water supply to the toilet before you begin your repair.

About The Author

Ruth Campbell owns and operates http://www.her-fix-it-guide.com Her Fix-it Guide

http://www.articlecity.com

Wednesday, 10 June 2009

Toilet Problems - Our Favorite Topic

When your home is on the market, the condition of your bathroom will make a real difference in how appealing the home is to the prospective buyer. Of course, there are a multitude of other factors involved in making your home the best it can be but don't forget about the bathroom.

Even if you are not planning to sell your home (at least in the near future) the condition of your bathroom will make a big difference in both the comfort and the safety of your home.

This brief article will focus on issues related to toilet problems, which are near the top of the list when it comes to maintenance in this area of the house. Let's start with the leaking toilet. Finding the source of the leak is the key in getting the problem fixed. Using a little food coloring in the tank is about the best way to trace the source of the leak. After putting in the food coloring, check the toilet bowl. If you find the water discolored by the coloring agent, your problem is a flapper valve that's not doing its job properly. You can try cleaning the sediment or chemical deposits off of the flapper valve, but these items are so inexpensive that a quick trip to the hardware store (taking the flapper valve with you to ensure a match) is probably your best bet. The valve is easy to replace and should stop the problem.

OK, the water in the tank is clean. Take a look at the area where the tank and the bowl are joined. If the colored water is leaking in this area, you will need to replace the seal that fits between these two sections of the toilet. This involves a little more work than replacing the flapper valve. The main job is removing the tank. First, shut off the valve that supplies water to the toilet. This valve is usually near the floor at the back of the toilet and should be relatively easy to turn off (turn it clockwise until you can't turn it any more). Second, bail out as much of the water from the tank as you can and remove the mechanical components inside the tank making sure you either remember or make a sketch of how to replace them. Third, unscrew the fitting that secures the tank to the toilet bowl and carefully lift the tank up and off the bowl. It's a good idea to put towels on the floor around the area to soak up any water that runs out of the tank. Finally, pry off the seal and take it to the hardware store to match up with a replacement seal. Reverse the process and your problem should be solved.

Hopefully you won't end up with colored water on the floor around the base of the toilet after each flush. If this is the case, the wax seal underneath the toilet is damaged and will have to be replaced. You can try to tighten the tank bolts that hold the toilet to the floor to see if this solves the problem. Sometimes these bolts work themselves loose (but not very often). One other possibility is that the toilet bowl and/or tank is cracked. A quick inspection should let you know if this is the case. If this is the problem, you will need to invest in a new toilet (try buying one that uses less water per flush).

Assuming that crack(s) aren't your problem, you will need to disassemble the toilet itself starting with the tank (see above). Next, you need to remove the bowl. Bail out the water in the bowl and remove the four bolts that secure the toilet to the floor. This is sometimes a daunting task because the bolts may be rusty. Use whatever methods necessary to get these bolts out or at least remove the bolt heads. Use pliers or a channel lock or pipe wrench to remove the threaded portion of the bolt. Don't worry about damaging the threads because you will be replacing the bolts anyway.

When removing the bowl, be very careful where you put your hands (use rubber gloves). Many toilets have jagged edges inside the bowl that will cut you quicker than a freshly sharpened knife. Lift off the bowl and pry out the wax seal at the top of the floor drain. Again, this is germ-laden and requires you to be careful not to introduce an infection through any cuts, etc. near or on your hands. Wax seals are pretty much standard in size and are usually available at just about any hardware store. If the bolts were damaged, take a sample with you to make sure you get the right size replacements.

Let's hope that the leaking that has reached the floor hasn't done damage to the underlayment or floor tiles. If it has, you've got a bigger job on your hands because these damaged areas need to be replaced or you're just in for a continuing headache. You can tell if the wood underlayment is damaged by its color and if it's soft or swollen. Please don't ignore the problem. Cut out the area and replace it. Damaged tiles can sometimes be difficult to match unless you have a small surplus on hand. Chances are that you won't be able to find any replacement tiles that match the existing floor. This being the case, considers a small rug that will fit around the base of the toilet and will hide the mis-matched tiles (unless you decide to replace the entire floor with new tiles).

With everything on hand, put the toilet assembly back in place, say a little prayer, and flush it several times.

Hopefully you will have solved the problem.

Chuck Lunsford is the content manager for LightnBreezy.com, a well-known source for home improvement ceiling fixtures. If you have more questions about other home repair topics visit us at plumbing repairs for the do-it-yourselfers.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chuck_Lunsford

Thursday, 29 January 2009

8 Easy Tips To Finding The Right Toilet

Maybe you’re building a house, or you’re remodeling. With the all the things you're thinking about, the toilet probably doesn't seem too important. However, don't forget about the toilet, a true hallmark of a civilized home. Following a few straightforward steps can help you find a toilet that is right for you, both functionally and aesthetically. Remember, all toilets are not built the same!

Look for this in a toilet:

1). The toilet bowl's shape: You can choose an elongated shape or a round one. The round front tends to be two inches shorter, and works well for smaller spaces. The larger elongated front is more comfortable and sanitary, since there is less drip on the toilet.

2). The toilet size: There are lots of choices, with different lengths, widths and heights To get a comfortable fit, make sure you measure the available space. Don't forget about the rough-in space - the distance of the bowl's center to the finished wall - as this too will determine the toilet's maximum size.

3). The toilet trapway's size: The trap way is that part of the toilet that through which the water and waste exit. The smallest size available passes through waste of a 1.5 inch diameter. Larger trapways make it less likely that the toilet will get clogged.

4). How the toilet flushes: In the US, by law all toilets must have a 1.6 gallon tank to conserve water. However, you do still have some choices. In gravity fed toilets, the weight of the water from the tank pushes the waste through an S shaped trap way, as the siphon that is created empties the bowl. For a little extra flushing help, pressure assisted toilets use compressed air in the toilet tank. When flushing, the pressurized air pushes the water more strongly into the bowl, resulting in a better flush. On the downside, besides the bigger expense, these toilets tend to be noisier and harder to repair.

5). 1 or 2 piece toilets: For the budget minded, toilets consisting of the two separate pieces of toilet bowl and tank are appropriate. There are up to six parts in a one piece toilet that seamlessy make it up. These have a bit more style to them (with a correspondingly more expensive price tag), and need less space and are easier to clean.

6). Ease of maintaining: Many higher end toilets are built explicitly for ease of maintenance. For instance, Toto, an innovative Japanese manufacturer, has SanaGloss, a ceramic glaze which prevents bacteria and mold buildup, making the toilet easy to clean. American Standard has its EasyClean feature. The designers at Kohler have come up with an insulated liner that prevents moisture from condensation on the toilet tank's outside.

7). Appearance: While a toilet needs to work well, it also needs to look good in your bathroom. It's a good thing that modern toilets are available in a wide array of styles, sizes and colors. This can come at a price - for instance, non-white toilets tend to be more expensive. One approach you may to consider is to choose a toilet that is part of a bathroom suite, thus ensuring that are the fixtures are in harmony.

8). What else?: If you're willing to spend the money, you can get a fancy toilet with a built in bidet, heated seat or air drying system. Kohler Comfort Height toilets have a higher seat, making sitting down and standing easier.

You're now ready to go and choose your perfect toilet.

Published At: www.Isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=145100&ca=Home+Management

Wednesday, 15 July 2009

Three Easy Steps to Repair a Leaky Wax Seal on Your Toilet

Symptom: There is water on the floor around the base of my toilet or water leaks from under the base of my toilet when I flush.

Usually this happens when the wax ring looses it's seal. Replacing the wax ring under the toilet bowl should repair this problem.

The first step in making this repair is to turn off the water source and remove all the water from your toilet tank and bowl. A good maintenance tip is to have a stop valve installed before the water supply line to the toilet tank. This is very common in most residences. If there is no stop valve the water will have to be turned off outside to make this repair. Many times an inline shut off valve will be installed where the water enters the home. The water can be turned off here, or at the street where the water meter is installed. A good maintenance procedure is to install a shut off valve right outside the house where the water enters from the street. It is also very convenient for making other plumbing repairs.

Next, once all the water is out of the toilet tank and bowl and the water is turned off, disconnect the water supply line to the toilet tank. Next Remove the nuts from the bolts that hold the toilet bowl to the floor so you can lift the bowl off the floor and away from the toilet flange(top of the sewer pipe). Inspect the flange for deterioration or damage. Cast iron pipe flanges rust over time and may need to be repaired or replaced. There are several options for repairing a cast iron flange. Putting a new steel ring over the top of the cast iron flange, chipping off the rusted flange and replacing with a new cast iron flange, or inserting a PVC (plastic) flange with an expansion joint are some of the options for repairing a damaged or deteriorated cast iron flange. Repair techniques for PVC flanges include using a "half moon" metal part, or a PVC spacer. All these parts can be purchased at your local home improvement store.

The last step, once you have inspected and/or repaired the toilet flange is to install the wax ring that you purchased at the local home improvement store. The wax ring is applied to the bottom of the toilet bowl. Set the bolts in the toilet flange and carefully set the toilet bowl over the bolts onto the wax ring. Install the nuts onto the bolts being careful not to over tighten. Reattach the water supply line and open the valve. Check for leaks. Once the tank is full, do a test flush to be sure you have a good seal at the flange. Your repair is complete!

Tag : toilet,toilet repair,toilet paper,american standard toilet

Wednesday, 14 January 2009

Choosing Your Bathroom Toilet

It is a known fact that we make many trips to the bathroom each day. Therefore, it is important to many people to have their bathrooms safe, comfortable and attractive; which plays into the reason behind many bathroom remodels each year.

When it comes to remodeling their bathrooms, many homeowners also consider replacing their toilet as part of the project. There are several factors to consider when shopping for a new toilet. The other remodeling that needs to be done in your bathroom is one of the factors when choosing your toilet. When remodeling your bathroom, be sure that you choose a toilet that will compliment the rest of the remodeled room's decor. One of the ways to create an attractive bathroom is to have everything matching; from the tiles to the toilet and walls.

The majority of bathrooms in homes usually consist of a standard aka traditional style toilet that is usually white in color and comes in two pieces. Standard bathroom toilets are also the most affordable style of toilet and can be found in most home improvement stores. However, if you are in the market for something different for your bathroom, you may want to do a little more research. Some toilet choices include a one or two piece toilet, a standard or comfort height, a gravity, power/pressure flush or flush valve, a round front and an elongated bowl.

One piece toilets are more expensive than their two piece counterparts and has a lower profile of 22 to 27 inches in height.

Two piece toilets are more affordable and are 27 to 30 inches in height.

Comfort height toilets, aka ADA compliant toilets, provide for easier sitting because it is the same height as a standard chair. Even though the tank is the same height as a standard height toilet, the bowl of a comfort height toilet is 1 1/2 to 2 inches taller than the standard height toilet.

A gravity flush system is a system that uses nothing more than water weight to generate flushing pressure. It is not only simple and quiet, it also requires less maintenance than more complex flushing systems.

A power/pressure flush system is a system that uses a pressurized air tank. This tank aids in the toilet’s flushing process. Power pressure flush systems are often noisy and more expensive than the gravity flush system toilet.

Flush valves are located at the center of the tank and is activated by the toilet’s flush handle. This releases the water that is held in the tank. The larger the flush valve is the more water flows through the toilet.

Round front bowls are suitable for smaller bathrooms and are more affordable than the elongated bowls.

Elongated bowls are toilet bowls that are 2-3 inches longer than the round front bowls. Elongated bowls are roomier, more comfortable and are suitable for bathrooms with additional space.

Even though you should be concerned with the appearance of your new toilet, you should also consider the cost of it as well. Bathroom toilets are very heavy and you may need assistance getting in inside your home. Some home improvement places offer free delivery while others charge a small fee. Be sure that you also keep in mind installation when installing the new toilet. You can have a professional install the toilet for a fee or you can install it yourself for less money.

There are many choices then it comes to your bathroom toilet. Not only do you have different styles than shapes, you even have your choice of colors as well. Even though many toilets do not come with a toilet seat, there are also many choices of seats available in every style and color. With a little time and research, you will have the perfect toilet for your bathroom that you can be happy with.

Published At: www.Isnare.com
Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=305780&ca=Home+Management

Saturday, 20 November 2010

New Toilet Installing - You Can Do It!

If you can install your own toilet then you can choose what toilet best suits your needs, as there is a very big variety in style, price, and quality of toilets. Installing your own toilet is not as big a question as you might think it is. Learn how you can install a toilet yourself. You can have your new model toilet in place in just a few hours. Probably even much less time than that.

The first thing you need to do is pick out the toilet that you prefer to have. If you are older or have health problems, consider a handicap height toilet. They are a couple of inches taller than a standard toilet and make it much easier to get up from. If you have a lot of usage than a pressure assisted toilet might also be a good fit for you. The extra water pressure will help to keep the toilet from clogging. Toilets usually come without a seat, so don't forget to buy a new one or you can save the one from your previous toilet if it will fit the bowl of the new one.

The floor does not have to be spotless before installing the new toilet, but it should be fairly clean. You will next need to install the tank onto the bowl. Set the bolts with the rubber washers on them in the holes on the tank and then set the tank on the back of the toilet bowl. Tighten the bolts gently, just expanding the washers a bit.

Next, turn the toilet bowl upside down and place an new wax ring and sleeve onto the toilet horn. The toilet bowl wax gasket works best if it is at room temperature. This will ensure the proper forming of seal. Now stand directly over the toilet and lift it turning it over and setting it down over the bolts in the flange. By doing this you will place the toilet on top of the wax ring. The bolts will come up through the holes on the side of the toilet.

Install the washers over the bolts and slowly tighten the nuts until snug, while slowly pressing down until the toilet is seated flush with the floor. Make certain that the bolts are tight enough to prevent the toilet from rocking, however do not over-tighten them. Tightening the bolts too much will cause the toilet which is porcelain, to crack. Now, reconnect the water line from the floor to the tank. To give it a nice finished look a bead of silicone caulk can be run around the base of the toilet. Remember that he caulk will be visible, so choose a color that looks good with your toilet for a professional look.

Installing your own toilet can be just that easy. In an afternoon your can pick out your new toilet, remove your old one, install your new one and have it up and flushing in no time at all! Then last of all, check for leaks!! Don't be embarrassed if you find a leak, retighten and check again. Even a pro will have a leak sometimes. Leaks happen! Good Luck!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=D._Floyd_Kolb

Friday, 13 May 2011

New Toilet Installing - You Can Do It!

If you can install your own toilet then you can choose what toilet best suits your needs, as there is a very big variety in style, price, and quality of toilets. installing your own toilet is not as big a question as you might think it is. Learn how you can install a toilet yourself. You can have your new model toilet in place in just a few hours. Probably even much less time than that.

The first thing you need to do is pick out the toilet that you prefer to have. If you are older or have health problems, consider a handicap height toilet. They are a couple of inches taller than a standard toilet and make it much easier to get up from. If you have a lot of usage than a pressure assisted toilet might also be a good fit for you. The extra water pressure will help to keep the toilet from clogging. Toilets usually come without a seat, so don't forget to buy a new one or you can save the one from your previous toilet if it will fit the bowl of the new one.

The floor does not have to be spotless before installing the new toilet, but it should be fairly clean. You will next need to install the tank onto the bowl. Set the bolts with the rubber washers on them in the holes on the tank and then set the tank on the back of the toilet bowl. Tighten the bolts gently, just expanding the washers a bit.

Next, turn the toilet bowl upside down and place an new wax ring and sleeve onto the toilet horn. The toilet bowl wax gasket works best if it is at room temperature. This will ensure the proper forming of seal. Now stand directly over the toilet and lift it turning it over and setting it down over the bolts in the flange. By doing this you will place the toilet on top of the wax ring. The bolts will come up through the holes on the side of the toilet.

Install the washers over the bolts and slowly tighten the nuts until snug, while slowly pressing down until the toilet is seated flush with the floor. Make certain that the bolts are tight enough to prevent the toilet from rocking, however do not over-tighten them. Tightening the bolts too much will cause the toilet which is porcelain, to crack. Now, reconnect the water line from the floor to the tank. To give it a nice finished look a bead of silicone caulk can be run around the base of the toilet. Remember that he caulk will be visible, so choose a color that looks good with your toilet for a professional look.

Installing your own toilet can be just that easy. In an afternoon your can pick out your new toilet, remove your old one, install your new one and have it up and flushing in no time at all! Then last of all, check for leaks!! Don't be embarrassed if you find a leak, retighten and check again. Even a pro will have a leak sometimes. Leaks happen! Good Luck!

Wednesday, 18 February 2009

8 Steps To The Right Toilet

You might be building a new home, or fixing up the one you have. If you’re like most folks, the toilet probably does not rate very high on your list of priorities. Still, the toilet is a key piece of a comfortable, modern, well-functioning home. Following a few easy steps can assist you in the choosing the perfect toilet. Despite what you may think, there are more types of toilets available than you can imagine.

Step by step now, let’s examine:

1). The toilet bowl’s shape: You can choose an elongated shape or a round one. The round shape is appropriate if your bathroom space is limited. The larger elongated front is more comfortable and sanitary, since there is less drip on the toilet.

2). The size of the toilet: You need to consider how long, wide and high the toilet is. Make sure you measure the space available for the toilet to ensure a comfortable fit. Don’t forget about the rough-in space - the distance of the bowl’s center to the finished wall - as this too will determine the toilet’s maximum size.

3). How large is your toilet trapway?: This is the end of the toilet where waste and water leave. The minimum standard allows waste with a diameter of 1 ½ inches to pass through. The larger the trapway, the less likely clogging will be.

4). The flushing system: US water conservation laws dictate that toilets must have a 1.6 gallon tank. However, you do still have some choices. The siphon created by the weight of the water pushes through the waste and empties the bowl in gravity fed toilets. For a little extra flushing help, pressure assisted toilets use compressed air in the toilet tank. When flushing, the pressurized air pushes the water more strongly into the bowl, resulting in a better flush. Some drawbacks of pressure toilets are the higher price, increased noise and more complicated repairs.

5). One or two piece toilets: For the budget minded, toilets consisting of the two separate pieces of toilet bowl and tank are appropriate. There are up to six parts in a one piece toilet that seamlessy make it up. This is a more elegant style that is cleaned more easily and requires less space but also has a higher price tag.

6). Maintenance features: Many better toilet designs include features to easily maintain them. From the inventive minds at Japan’s Toto comes the easy to clean SanaGloss ceramic glaze which hinders buildup of mold and bacteria. EasyClean is a feature found on many American Standard toilets. The designers at Kohler have come up with an insulated liner that prevents moisture from condensation on the toilet tank’s outside.

7). How the toilet looks: While a toilet needs to work well, it also needs to look good in your bathroom. Luckily, there are many choices available for styles, colors and sizes. This can come at a price - for instance, non-white toilets tend to be more expensive. One approach you may to consider is to choose a toilet that is part of a bathroom suite, thus ensuring that are the fixtures are in harmony.

8). What else?: High end toilets may come with heated seats, warm air drying systems and built-in bidets, such as the Toto Washlets. Kohler makes the Comfort Height toilet with a higher seat for easier sitting and standing.

There, now you have 8 steps to finding the toilet that is right for you and your loved ones!

About the Author

Brad Petros writes for All About Toilets, a consumer guide to choosing the perfect toilets for your home, reviewing styles such as bidets and top brands such as American Standard toilets.

Article Directory: http://www.articlerich.com

Monday, 12 January 2009

Repairing a Leaking Toilet

Let me explain how a toilet works. First when you go to flush the toilet a little arm pulls a rubber flapper up and lets the water drain into the toilet bowl. The water draining into the toilet bowl forces the old water out along with the number two or number one waste and extremities.

If the toilet sounds like it is running there is a good chance that the seal between the rubber flapper and the plastic rain at the bottom of the toilet is broken somehow. The sound you are hearing is water running around this ring and in to the toilet bowl.

This leak is actually causing no damage to the toilet itself but is wasting water. Hence the water bill will be a little higher if you don't fix the leaking toilet. The best way to find out if this is actually your problem is to take the toilet tank lid off. Then stick your hand down into the toilet bowl and press gently on the rubber flap.

If the water stops leaking or starts running faster this is your problem. Turn the water off to the toilet. There will be a shut off valve on the wall under your toilet bowl in the bathroom. After you turn the water off removed the plastic flap and examine it.

You will be looking for a warped toilet flap or of some sort or grooves on the flapper itself. Take the toilet flapper down to your local home improvement store and buy a new one. Go home and replace the new toilet flapper and this should solve 90% of your leaking toilet problems.

There is one more thing it could be. With the toilet tank lid off, check to see if water is overflowing into the little round plastic pipe. This plastic pipe should have a small hose running from the float valve assembly into it.

If the water is over flowing from the toilet tank into this little plastic pipe you will need to adjust the float.

First thing you will need to do is while the toilet is running lift up on the float lever arm. If the water stops you can simply bend the metal arm of the float lever. The purpose of bending the arm will force the float deeper into the water there for stopping the water from rising over the small tube in the center of your toilet.

There are few parts to a toilet and most parts can be purchased at your local hardware or home improvement centers. Toilet repairs like this can be made simple and the parts used to replace are inexpensive.

Happy Toilet Repairing.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more House Building and Remodeling Library and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Visit us and get more information on building and remodeling your homes and Some Great Plumbing Ideas

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Greg_Vandenberge

Tuesday, 11 January 2011

A Toilet For Every Space

The basic components of a toilet include washbasin, toilet seat, flush and shower or bathtub in the bathing area. Here we find that to fix these components together, toilets require too much of wall space. The cisterns or tanks too wide and often tend to have the water inlet and overflow on the side of the tank, which takes up even more wall space. Redesigning an old toilet into a new one, with the best of the facilities in the available small space is a tedious task.

Today with the alarming increase in the population the land areas are getting quite expensive. Due to this people get comparatively smaller homes. Due to this, the size of toilets has greatly shrunken. People try to utilize every nook and corner of the home judiciously.

Though large toilets are a bliss because there a person spends a lot of time to rejuvenate and energize still the need of the hour is to find alternatives that utilize less space yet retaining the beauty of the ceramic palace, thus making toilet big enough to be used by all, and small enough to fit into the available space.Sanitary manufacturers in the field of hygiene products have come up with a range of pioneering products that require a bit too less of the wall and floor area, yet retain the spaciousness of a toilet. The innovative designs and product automation has opened whole new grounds for work and development for proper and careful space utilization. They have come up with a range of toilet designs like 2 piece toilet, a 1 piece toilet, a floor mount toilet, a wall mount toilet, a concealed tank toilet, a comfort height toilet and a corner toilet. Also the colors of the walls have a great effect. Light color paints in a small bathroom to give a feeling of space. Apart from that the direction of light and mirror placing also add to the feeling of space.

Corner toilets are one of the one of the best ways for utilizing the corner spaces. A pedestal sink does not take up the visual space or floor space that a cabinet does and will make a smaller area look larger. They come in a variety of sizes and shapes. For toilets of small spaces, plumbing is done such that it enters cistern from below instead of the side and the size of the cistern is chosen no more than 16 inches. Apart from this, round bowl fronts are preferred, rather than the usual elongated ones. A round-front toilet extends 25 to 28 inches from the wall while elongated toilet extends 29 to 31 inches. The round toilet bowls are shorter in length by a full 2 inches, making this choice a particularly useful toilet for small spaces - just perfect for when space is at a premium. There are a variety of variations available for the smaller toilets that can definitely be called as A Toilet for every space.

The basic components of a toilet include washbasin, toilet seat, flush and shower or bathtub in the bathing area. Here we find that to fix these components together, toilets require too much of wall space. The cisterns or tanks too wide and often tend to have the water inlet and overflow on the side of the tank, which takes up even more wall space. Wall Hung Toilets are a good option for small bathrooms.

Tag : toilet,toilet peper,toilet repair,toilet wall,toilet water

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Amaan_Goyal

Saturday, 6 June 2009

8 Easy Steps To Choosing The Perfect Toilet

You might be building a new home, or fixing up the one you have. With all the details concerned, you might overlook the humble toilet. Mundane as it may seem, the toilet is an important part of your bathroom. Following a few easy steps can assist you in the choosing the perfect toilet. Remember, all toilets are not built the same!

Step by step now, let’s examine:

1). The bowl shape: The main choices here are an elongated bowl and a round front bowl. The round style is shorter and fits for a smaller space. However, the elongated style gives you more comfort, since there is more open space in front.

2). The toilet size: Toilets come in different widths, heights and lengths. For the right fit, you will need to do some measuring. Don't forget about the rough-in space - the distance of the bowl's center to the finished wall - as this too will determine the toilet's maximum size.

3). How large is your toilet trapway?: This is the end of the toilet where waste and water leave. The smallest size available passes through waste of a 1.5 inch diameter. The larger the trapway, the less likely clogging will be.

4). How the toilet flushes: Due to water conservation laws, toilet tanks in the US hold 1.6 gallons of water. Despite this, different flush technologies give you some choice. The siphon created by the weight of the water pushes through the waste and empties the bowl in gravity fed toilets. For a little extra flushing help, pressure assisted toilets use compressed air in the toilet tank. The extra pressure caused by compressed air helps the toilet to flush better. On the downside, besides the bigger expense, these toilets tend to be noisier and harder to repair.

5). One or two piece toilets: For the budget minded, toilets consisting of the two separate pieces of toilet bowl and tank are appropriate. There are up to six parts in a one piece toilet that seamlessy make it up. This is a more elegant style that is cleaned more easily and requires less space but also has a higher price tag.

6). Maintenance features: Many better toilet designs include features to easily maintain them. For instance, Toto, an innovative Japanese manufacturer, has SanaGloss, a ceramic glaze which prevents bacteria and mold buildup, making the toilet easy to clean. American Standard has its EasyClean feature. Kohler has an insulated liner for some of its toilet lines, preventing moisture build-up on the outside of the tank due to condensation.

7). What does the toilet look like?: Function is certainly essential, but a pleasing form is also important. Fortunately, today’s toilets come in a huge selection of colors and sizes. However, non-white colors will usually cost you more. One approach you may to consider is to choose a toilet that is part of a bathroom suite, thus ensuring that are the fixtures are in harmony.

8). What else?: High end toilets may come with heated seats, warm air drying systems and built-in bidets, such as the Toto Washlets. Kohler makes the Comfort Height toilet with a higher seat for easier sitting and standing.

There, now you have 8 steps to finding the toilet that is right for you and your loved ones!

Rob Barnes writes for All About Toilets, a consumer guide to choosing the right toilet for your home, reviewing styles such as bidets and top brands such as Kohler toilets.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rob_Barnes

Tuesday, 24 February 2009

How to fix your toilet in a few easy steps.

Toilets. We simply can't do without them. One of the necessary evils of our lives is that apparatus in the bathroom that sooner than later will start to develop problems.

So when problems crop up, what are you going to do?

You have two choices. One, hit the yellow pages and find a plumber. Two, tackle the job yourself. Hint"¦ the first choice will cost you dearly. However, there may be repairs that should be left to the experts simply because they involve heavy lifting.

Toilets are not high tech machines.

Toilets have very few parts. There is the bowl and the tank, that sits on the back of the bowl. First let's take a look at the bowl.

The bowl sits directly on the floor. On the bottom of the bowl there is a drain hole. That hole sits right inside the drain pipe on the floor. The drain pipe has a brass ring surrounding the lip. The ring has two flat head brass bolts that fit into slots in the ring and stick upright waiting for the bowl to be placed over the drain pipe. The slots allow for the bowl to be positioned over the bolts upright. To seal the pipe and the hole there is a wax ring that is in the shape of a large donut. The toilet bowl is set on its back or side, the seal is pressed around the drain hole with your fingers and it is ready to go. All that needs to be done is to place the bowl over the drain hole, line up the bolts, press down the bowl, place the washers and nuts on the bolts and lightly tighten them down.

The tank sits on the tank. A rubber seal sits in the joint. Two bolts with fiber washers hold the tank and bowl together.

Now for the tank. Inside the tank is a filler pipe in the center. Fitted on that pipe is a rubber flapper that covers the drain hole. There are a few different flappers but basically they do the same job. The flapper is attached to the flush handle with a chain. Turn the handle, the chain lifts the flapper, it raises up allowing water to flush the toilet. The flapper can be easily replaced because it has two ears that fit over two fingers on either side of the ring that is fitted to the filler pipe.

The float system on the left of the tank is there for the job of filling the tank with water and stopping the water when the tank is filled. To replace the float system, turn the water off with the shut-off located under and behind the toilet bowl first. Drain the tank as much as possible and then dry up the rest of the water with a sponge or rag until there is none left in the tank. With a wrench, back off the nut under the float system where it is connecting the small pipe connecting the tank to the water supply shut-off. The small pipe should be now free from the float system. Now there is only one more nut fastening the float system to the tank. Back that one off. You need to get your head down so you can see the nut under the tank.

You should follow the directions that accompany the float system for the placement of the two rubber washers and adjusting the height of the float. Now you should attach the filler tube to the float system, fit the filler tube clip onto the filler pipe and trim the filler tubing and fit it onto the clip.

Now you should turn on the water but only a little. Check for leaks. Tighten things up so that all fittings are dry. Now fill the tank, check by flushing and see that the flapper does its job. Place the tank cover on top of the tank and flush it again a couple of times.

You now have completed your first toilet repair job. Congratulations.

About The Author:
Joe and Irma Mac Millan have enjoyed the Whistler Mountain and valley area of British Columbia for many years. They have camped, hiked and skied the mountains and fished and kayaked the rivers and lakes. Their website Whistler-outdoors is a must for anyone considering a trip to Whistler as well as the 2010 Vancouver Olympics. They invite one and all to take a look.

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